Key takeaways
- Retinoids are the most-studied topical ingredient in dermatology.
- Start with the lowest strength — over-the-counter retinol before prescription tretinoin.
- Twice a week to start, working up over months.
- It gets worse before it gets better — for 4–6 weeks.
What retinoids actually do
Retinoids are vitamin-A-derivative molecules — retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin (prescription), and adapalene (over-the-counter in many countries). They speed cell turnover, increase collagen production, and reduce hyperpigmentation. They're also the main topical treatment for acne.
Fifty years of research supports them. If you were only going to add one active ingredient to a skincare routine, this would be it.
Which one to start with
- Retinol (0.25% – 1%) — over-the-counter, weakest, gentlest. A good starting point for most people
- Retinaldehyde — a step up in strength, still over-the-counter in many markets
- Adapalene 0.1% — over-the-counter, well-tolerated, excellent for acne
- Tretinoin (0.025% – 0.1%) — prescription, strongest, most-studied
Beginners: start with a 0.25-0.5% retinol or adapalene. Do not begin with prescription tretinoin unless directed.
How to start without wrecking your face
The most common mistake is going too fast. Retinoids don't work faster if you use more — they just irritate faster.
- Week 1–2: Twice a week, at night, on dry skin. Pea-sized amount for the whole face
- Week 3–4: Three times a week if tolerating well
- Month 2 onwards: Every other night, or nightly if no irritation
- Always follow with moisturiser
- Always use sunscreen the next morning — retinoids increase sun sensitivity
Expect a "retinisation" period: some redness, flaking, or breakouts in the first 4-6 weeks. That's normal. If it's severe, back off; don't quit.
When to skip or delay
Pregnancy and breastfeeding: no retinoids at all. Full stop.
Active eczema or rosacea flares: pause and talk to a dermatologist.
Waxing or aggressive exfoliation: skip retinoid for a few days before and after.
Retinoids work over months and years, not days. The people with the best results are the ones who used them boringly for a decade.
— Dr. Elena Marín
The takeaway
Retinoids are the most powerful anti-aging and anti-acne topical in existence. Start low, go slow, moisturise generously, and wear sunscreen. In 6-12 months, you'll notice smoother texture, more even tone, and softer fine lines.
For the wider routine, see our minimalist skincare guide.
