Key takeaways
- Cleanser, moisturiser, sunscreen — that's the entire base.
- Sunscreen every morning is the single non-negotiable.
- Everything else is optional and depends on your skin.
- More products don't equal better skin — often the opposite.
Why less is usually more
The beauty industry sells complexity. Complexity sells serums. More serums mean more revenue. This has quietly convinced a generation that a ten-step routine is normal.
It's not. In dermatology practice, the same three products come up over and over. Everything else is optional, and often counterproductive when layered without thought.
The three products that matter
- Cleanser — gentle, non-stripping. Once at night is enough for most skin. In the morning, a splash of water often does.
- Moisturiser — twice a day. Look for ceramides or hyaluronic acid on the ingredient list. Fragrance-free if you're sensitive.
- Sunscreen — SPF 30 or higher, every single morning, even indoors on cloudy days. The single most impactful skincare product in existence.
That's it. That's the routine.
The best anti-aging product ever invented is sunscreen. Everything else is a rounding error.
— Dr. Elena Marín
Where to add complexity — if at all
Once your base is consistent for a few months, you can add targeted actives — but one at a time, and only if you have a specific goal.
- Retinoid — for anti-aging or acne. See our retinoids guide
- Vitamin C — morning, for brightness and antioxidant protection
- Niacinamide — for redness, pore appearance, oil control
- AHA/BHA — for texture, but only 1–2× a week if using retinoid
You'll notice a lot of things missing from this list. Essences. Toners. Sheet masks. Facial oils. Not that they're harmful — most aren't. Just that they rarely add meaningful benefit if the base three aren't already in place.
What to actually skip
Complex "detox" products. Anything claiming to shrink pores permanently. Most facial oils on top of moisturiser. Anything advertising results in 48 hours. And — this may sting — many expensive luxury creams whose active ingredients are identical to $12 drugstore alternatives.
Read ingredient lists, not marketing copy.
The takeaway
Three products. Every day. For years. Boring, sustainable, effective. That's what dermatologists actually do. Layer on complexity only when you have a specific goal and a base habit locked in.
For the lifestyle piece that beats any cream, see our habits that show on your face guide.
